What Nail Gun Would I Need For 1x8 T&g Pine Boards
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Which finish nailer for 1" trim?
I am putting up new trim in our house that is similar to sometime farm firm trim using 1 in. wood. I put upwardly some with an 18 ga nailer and 2 in brads. They don't seem to hold that practiced and don't pull the wood against the wall. I'grand sure it wouldn't shoot a brad thru the metal corners under the Sheetrock. What gun would you advise? Thanks for the help.
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Most people use a 15ga nailer with an angled magazine. Significantly stronger than the xvi or 18ga.
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I accept a Spotnail pin driver that shoots 23ga pins. I also have a Porter Cable 15ga finish nailer. I use whichever is advisable.
I apply lip mold to wrap cabinet doors. The xv ga splits the trim.
I besides accept a Porter Cable finish nailer.
I utilize whichever is advisable.
Last edited by lowell holmes; 01-15-2017 at xi:22 AM.
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Bated from small moldings, for interior trim like yous describe, a sixteen gage brad gun and/or a 15 gage angle terminate nailer are going to give you more holding power than the smaller 18 cuff brads. About finish carpenters are going to apply a combination of three or three of these guns to do that piece of work. The 15 gage fasteners also tend to have heat activated adhesive on the nails which further increased belongings power. 23 gage pinners as well have a use, but not for "pure holding power".
I don't own a sixteen cuff gun, only use a combination of xviii gage brads and xv gage nails for this work in my own home.
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The nearly expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and oft...
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Thanks for all the replies. I do accept a 23 pin nailer, merely accept never used information technology. I guess I demand to brand sure I'm hitting the studs with the 18 ga nailer and so either paw smash for get a bigger nailer for the corner where the Sheetrock metallic would be. I am using pino. Volition fifteen or 16 ga bosom pine normally? Cheers over again.
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If y'all mean you are applying 5/4 trim to the wall, and then a 15 gauge is in order. If you are indicating yous will be putting in tiny 1 inch trim pieces into other larger trim then a smaller judge is in order.
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The nearly expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
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I recollect he means 1" thick. I have never understood the reason backside using annihilation other and so 18 gauge on trim. All the trim is going to do is sit against the wall, no need to accept a agglomeration of holding ability. two" xviii estimate brad should concord more and then well plenty if your hit studs and it will absolutely shoot through a corner bead. Every once in a while information technology won't make it through if you have it at an angle though.
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A 2" blast in this case would give a half inch into the stud. Non enough IMO
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A two" boom isn't long enough to secure 1" thick trim through drywall and into studs or blocking.
Use a 2.5" 15ga nail.
18ga nails are fine for some things (like nailing a casing edge into a jamb, or most crown profiles), just they aren't strong plenty to hold things that may move..(call back wide trim that may aggrandize or contract, especially if not back-primed..plus framing moves...)
To see what I hateful attempt bending a 2" 18ga blast in half with your fingers.....like tissue newspaper
Now curve a 2" fifteen ga nail in one/ii with your fingers..........
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I apply 23, 18, sixteen, and 15 judge at times and volition apply narrow crown staples if I really need holding power and if their 1.5 inch length is plenty.
I utilise the 23 for little returns on pieces under the windows. With glue.
I mostly utilise the 18 gauge cordless. But if information technology doesn't agree the slice, I become the sixteen or xv. The latter is my almost recent addition and then I use it more. I am non sure there is that much difference betwixt the two in performance but the fifteen approximate costs a lot more. If you have information technology, using a fifteen makes sense but if you are but starting out and trying to save money, I think the 16 is a good choice.
The casing I am using is 1 inch thick at the outer border. But it's also 3.5 inches wide. There is typically non a stud behind the 1 inch office. So I smash an area within further that is more like ane/2 thick. That lets 2 inch 18 gauge brads concur fine.
Pneumatic nails hold amend than hand driven nails. I have to practice a lot of demo in this house and it generally has manus driven but has some pneumatic brads. The pneumatic brads pull through the molding sometimes but rarely come out intact. The hand driven nails are much easier to pull.
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Cheers over again. I am using one x 2, ane x4, and 1 x half-dozen pine on the trim.
- In an ideal globe I would concur with you, but "houses move" over time and the heavier trim can hands pull through the tiny heads on an xviii gage brad. The xv gage nails have an actual head that helps avoid that issue.
Originally Posted by keith micinski 
I think he means 1" thick. I have never understood the reason behind using anything other and so 18 guess on trim. All the trim is going to practice is sit against the wall, no need to accept a bunch of property ability. two" eighteen gauge brad should hold more than then well enough if your hit studs and it will absolutely shoot through a corner bead. Every one time in a while information technology won't brand it through if you take it at an bending though.
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The most expensive tool is the one you lot buy "cheaply" and often...
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Thomas,
If you lot buy your ane x ii, 1 x 4, and 1 x six trim in the store, it will exist 3/4" thick. Or are you using real one" (called 5/4) thick trim boards?
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Pneumatic nails don't agree any meliorate than a correctly sized and galvanized paw driven nail.
I insist on paw drives in some cases. They always get out a circular pigsty to fill, which looks much better than a t-head when filled in some finishes.
Use galvanized nails-they concord tenaciously, and don't leave oil on your fingers(and your boards) similar bright end nails.
Mitt driven nails give instant feedback when you don't hit anything.
Mitt driven nails don't smoothen out the side of the jamb when squirrly grain is encountered, or the operator tin't hold the gun square.
If y'all encounter a casing/jamb state of affairs where the casing has to be "rolled" a little to fit tight to the jamb, utilize a 6d gal finish nail:
This will pull the casing tight to the jamb, and keep information technology there.
I've seen way too many "pro" finish carpenters treat air guns similar shotguns, not noticing when they run out of nails, and firing blanks..
Leaving backside casings that don't stay tight or worse.
Or, the blast doesn't gear up, merely they're too decorated blasting away to notice.
Hand nails or air driven, take your time, place your nails in a consistent well spaced design, and set them properly for those who follow.
Source: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?250915-Which-finish-nailer-for-1-quot-trim
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